Archive for December, 2008

Dec 09 2008

A Quick Note about Fashion

I’m kind of a laid-back person. I like to get dressed up to go out somewhere fancy every once in a while, but for the most part, I like comfort.

And since much of this trip was to be spent outside the fashion-conscious cities of Santiago and Buenos Aires, I opted for hiking shoes and my stinky flip-flops that have travelled with me from Casablanca to Vietnam.

So when I got to Buenos Aires, and was slammed by 90-degree heat, and surrounded by chic portenos in their little sandals and Bermuda shorts, I felt more than a bit underdressed.

Good thing there are clothing stores everwhere, and shoe stores by the dozen.

I opted for something simple, black sandal thongs to replace the stinky flip-flops that were wearing thin anyway. I slid them on and instantly felt more chic. In the basura went the old pair, and I sauntered down Florida Avenue.

I’d forgotten that fashion and vanity comes with a price: blisters.

Throwing away those old stinky flops was a big mistake… Lesson learned.

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Dec 09 2008

Business As Usual in Buenos Aires

This is the Congressional Palace.Well, it’s Tuesday, and it’s back to business as usual in the streets of Buenos Aires.

Yesterday, the city celebrated its Dia de la Virgen, a national holiday that closed many businesses, including the stock exchange. After the break, the exchange is opening higher today.

The one immediate way you can tell BA is back in business is by listening to the traffic.

My hotel is on a busy street, Sarmiento that runs east to west, parallel to major corridors, like Av. Cordoba and Av. Corrientes. As people make their way down to Puerto Madero, or out to the Palacio del Congresso (where I spent some time this morning), many of them pass right under my “balcony.”

(It’s actually more of the size of a step, but it’s pretty.)

The sidewalks are packed with people on their way to somewhere… It reminds me a bit of New York. I even saw one gentleman get nudged by a car trying to pull into an alley. There was the inevitable fist slamming on the hood, and curses in Spanish, and the flow of people around the problem never stopping.

As far as I can tell, people will only stop to watch a fight at a futbol match…

I popped into a restaurant/cafe for some empanadas de jamon y queso (ham and cheese) on the way back to the hotel. They were scrumptious. It’s fast food, but I stood with the locals at the high tables, and ate with a knife and fork.

It’s a bit overcast today, and muggy. I was sure we were going to get a storm last night. We did see some lightening and a quick shower, but the humidity is sticking around, it would seem.

That means I’ll be sweating through my T-shirt as I make my way to the Palermo neighborhood.

Enjoy your Tuesday, and I’ll chat with you again this evening.

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Dec 08 2008

A Quick Update to an Early Night

Okay, the best ravioli, hands down, anywhere in the world that I’ve ever been had got to be found in a little place in Puerto Madero called Bahia Madero.

I had an amazing meal there. I ordered the spinach ravioli in a parmasean sauce and a glass of champaigne (since I don’t drink red wine anymore, on account of the headaches). The raviolis were absolutely the best I’ve ever had… no question about it.

The sause was incredibly flavorful without being heavy or overpowering, and you could tell the pasta was hand-made, and fresh.

If you ever find yourself in Buenos Aires, head down to the Puerto Madero and enjoy a meal at Bahia Madero. Ask for Jorge, who was so pleasant I gave him a 20% tip, even though a 10% tip is customary. He’ll treat you well.

And before I sign off, making this an early night for me, I have to tell you, my “al fresca” dining, right on the river was surrounded by dozens of restaurants. Across the water there were numerous business offices for telecom companies… LG, Nextel, they were all there.

An interesting mix of scenery and great food.

Incidentally, I think telecom companies in Latin America are probably one of the best industries right now, even in Argentina, and that’s saying a lot…

Until tomorrow, enjoy this evening.

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Dec 08 2008

Don’t Cry for Me, Argentina…

The tourists are visiting Recoleta Cemetary“Don’t cry for me, Argentina. I’ve got a prime spot in Recoleta Cemetary, a few meters from General Alvear’s final resting spot…”

Thus said Evita, the Argentine Rose.

General Carlos Maria de Alvear was a professional officer in the Spanish army who unexpectedly took the side of the revolutionaries in the Argentine War of Independence.

Not a bad spot, if you ask me.

Recoleta Cemetary is an enclosed area full of ornate, and some simple, mausoleums. The statues adorning some are very moving, and yet, some of the departed have been severely neglected. One can only assume that these people’s families have also passed on.

Why else would you leave broken glass and dead flowers on your loved one’s stones?

For as touristy as this place is, and there are groups of people lead on english-speaking tours around the cemetary to look at the famous people’s graves, you can find wonderfully isolated spots great for shooting pictures of the gothic statues.

There are also very many cats living in the cemetary. They slink around and sun themselves, take naps and watch birds… People, they generally ignore.

Outside of this feline haven is an interesting open-air market selling handicrafts and snacks. I wandered around quite a bit before I bought a ring for my mother. This area is what I would call a tourist trap… The long winding covered booths selling beautiful jewelry, leather works, and hand-made shaws can have you shopping for hours.

An interesting comparison to make, though, is that not too many people are in the retail stores here in Recoleta, which is an area known for shopping.

It may just be the holiday, however, as many locals were frequenting the cafes for a nice glass of vino tinto (red wine, which, by the way, I’ve found gives me headaches…) and a refreashing salad. We’ll see what tomorrow holds when it’s business as usual.

It’s very hot here today, and it’s siesta time right now.

I’m back in my hotel room, and I’ve had a cool shower. Now, I think I’ll take a nap.

When in Rome, right? Or make that Buenos Aires…

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